Monday 18 June 2018

Forays into Spain

When in Cerbère, it's only a brief nip over the border - about ten minutes by car, five by train and an interesting ramble of about half an hour up a hillside behind Cerbère - to cross into Spain.
Long gone are the days of border control although the vestiges are well apparent in the shape of the now-graffiti covered customs buildings. Here's an image of what it used to look like.

                          

We like Port-Bou. It's rather like a mirror of Cerbère with its huge railway sidings, although a little bigger in the way of shops and restaurants. On the port-side is a clutch of good and inexpensive eateries, our favourite being The Voramar - this for slightly more extravagant occasions as its a little more up-market than its neighbours - that said, it's still a lot cheaper than anything similar on the other side of the border. At time of writing, our beautifully prepared and rather Nouvelle Cuisine menu, including 'amuse bouche' and selection of olive oils to taste was still just under 20 euros a head.

                       
Port-Bou, for those who like, as we do, slightly 'Insolite' as the French say (a little odd, atypic, weird even) places, this is a must with its relaxed and slightly run-down air, sea views, and little interesting-to-explore back streets.

Port Bou Ramblas at night
                       
Moving along the coast a little, the towns become a little busier and more sought-after, the prices in the estate agents windows reflecting this.
Inland is well worth an exploration (in car, as I don't think buses are much of an option, or a good hike - excellent sign-posted footpaths everywhere.)
This time we did a tour around various villages and small towns, many of them featuring beautiful old stone buildings, little shady squares and . . . no humans, or virtually, although we were there on a Sunday afternoon so probably everyone was eating or sleeping off eating.
Peralada was particularly lovely and I think if it had been in France might have given a 'Plus beaux village de France' badge.


                                 

                     

I can't remember which village this was but I loved this communal hall and the strange but rather wonderful tea we were served





Friday 27 April 2018

First swim of the year

This morning at 8.30 with a few bemused 'Cerberians' looking on . . . the water was about 18 degrees, I think, but certainly above the extremities-freeze point.
After breakfast, I walked up to the lighthouse point and looked across to, Port de La Selva and Le cap de Creus, the atmosphere bright and clear, and, NO wind - quite unusual for this particular point of land. The early spring brought much rain and the resulting wild flower carpet of pink, yellow, lilac and white was truly beautiful.
This afternoon I may take the one euro bus and visit Collioure - a good time to go before the crowds start appearing in May onwards. Or I might just sit, drink tea and read in the deckchair that has been languishing on our terrace through the winter . . .

Update: I did go to Collioure on the one euro bus - a vertiginous route of about 45 mins, and came back on the train: a straight, relaxing journey of 15 minutes, with equally lovely views - cost three euros 75. Personally, I'd not buy a beer/ice cream and go for the quick ride.
Collioure was, as ever, absurdly pretty, hence the buses of tourists already arriving - I'd thought it might still be out of season, but I enjoyed rambling around the old streets and this time went up to the old restored windmill which is well worth the small trek, for the mill itself and the wonderful views.
Back in the main town, I had a cup of tea, earwigged the various conversations around me, sketched the harbour and returned to Cerbère where there were about three people on the beach and no nicknacks or ice-cream.


View from the walk up to the Cerbère lighthouse

Looking towards Le Cap de Creus in Spain


View of Collioure from near the windmill


my favourite Collioure house



Ceramic lizard souvenirs