Street art

There's lots of this in Cerbère. Over the years various contemporary art events have left traces all over the town: some defiantly visible like the oblong of violet paint with the word 'Miracle' written in gold paint that decorates the beach wall; or the huge gold letters saying 'You see what it is I want to say' (in French) also gracing that same wall.

A meander down the back streets reveals other works in unexpected places - a beautifully painted woman (picture of, not woman) holding giant antlers at the top of someones garden steps, or this fabulous orange fish near the entrance to one of the town's tunnels.

Dotted about are smaller paintings - a series of pigeons with moralistic phrases accompanying them, skulls, and all the real graffiti that graces walls, doors, steps and tunnels.

One of the passenger walkways tunnels has itself become a work of art by Jean Truel spanning many years.

I wonder if the likes of Picasso and other artists made it as far as Cerbère - they spent time in Collioure, a few kilometres up the coast. I can't imagine they wouldn't have stopped off, intrigued by the Belvedere Hotel perhaps (see last post). On their way to see Dali in Cadaqués perhaps? Someone in the town must know . . . another little project.

Landmark

We discovered Cerbère after failing to find a hotel in Cadaqués (mad season of August). A friend had suggested taking a look around Cerbère instead - 'I think you might like it . . .' she had said. And we did - very much.

Pictured - the Belvedere de Rayon Verte, a hotel built in the 1920s to serve the large numbers of fairly wealthy travellers voyaging from Frence to spain and vice versa (tennis courts on the roof, cinema on the first floor) when the train lines were installed, along with the extraordinary arched railway bankings that curve through the town - apparently designed and made by the 'Eiffel' company

We stayed here in a decrepit 'suite' with a view of the sea to one side of our balcony and the tracks to the other, and were serenaded by the 'singing railings' (four notes that strike up with certain wind directions) and the rumble and squeak of the trains. I believe the guest rooms have been done up in recent years, but luckily nothing done to alter the rather decaying but beautiful dining room, cinema etc.

Looking from high up on the Spanish-French border, the hotel is an extraordinary landmark; almost snaking itself along the train tracks in a long curve. If time travel were possible I would love to be transported back to the time when the building had just been opened in all its elaborate concrete-ness (one of the first concrete habitations in France).

Home to many art projects and other events, the Belvedere opens its doors to the public for the excellent annual film festival - 1st to the 3rd October. Link below.

http://www.rencontrescerbere.org